Feminine tailored models make a bold contrast with sporty pieces by Les Copains, the FW collection designed by Stefania Bandiera. Sophisticated tailored evening-dresses that could have belonged to Bianca Jagger or Ursula Andress stand next to long easy-to-wear cardigans, mini-sweaters are worn with Seventies flowing or straight pants, and short trench-coats over flared skirts. The understated lines are enlivened by unexpected luxury touches such as the tunic dresses and pea-coats lined in wonderful satin, graduated-colour sequin-stripes brighten up maxi-cardigans and pullovers. Even the sweatshirts and tracksuit pants feature incredible embroidered designs; the tailored suits have wide leather-belts and the knitwear in superb jacquard patterns is hand-embroidered with flowers.
The textures are dense and tactile in basket-stitch and cable-knit, with jacquard inserts, in rib-knit or fine-ribbing decorated with duchesse satin, felt, and double-face fabric. There are raw-edge effects, and the yarns include cashmere and alpaca.
You can see dream-like diamond patterns blending together like Picasso’s Harlequin, in baby alpaca, in very-fine Lurex or in a new loop-stitch with a three-dimensional effect.
The two different souls of the collection are also reflected in the colour palette that ranges from soft neutral tones like pure white, beige, ivory, rock-grey and shadow (a new take on army green) to classic black, right up to bright flashes of loud orange, green, purple and red.
The fabulous accessories are eye-catching: jewel-like rhinestone brooches, earrings and necklaces, including an Art-Deco dragonfly, that all seem like family heirlooms.